Golden leaves underfoot. Crisp mornings. Burning candles. Ankle boots. Crackling fires. Pumpkin everything. The internet is obsessed with autumn. But we loved it before it became a ‘thing’… just like everyone else. When we first visited the beautiful and underrated German city of Munich in autumn 2011, we loved the colours and the gemütlichkeit that the season brought to it.
So when we were looking for a short five-day break for this October, we decided we’d go back for a second time to see more of Munich and Bavaria.
Where we stayed: the suburb of Aubing
There’s very little nice, affordable accommodation in the centre of Munich, as we discovered in 2011. We thought maybe there’d be some better central options now that Airbnb has blown up, but everything available was either over £100 a night (our limit!) or had a dodgy looking shower. Last time, we stayed at Hotel Laimer Hof in Laim, a pretty suburb. We enjoyed ‘commuting’ into the centre on the tram or S-bahn.
So this time, we decided to stay in another nice suburb not too far away, called Aubing.
We found the lovely Hotel Grünwald Garni, which was just right: independent and family run, but big enough for us to be anonymous and not have to make conversation with people. The shower was genuinely worth writing home about (or texting your mum) and the receptionist remembered that we wanted milk for our tea. Super.
The hotel is at a crossroads, next to a gigantic maypole-type affair, shown below. And there are plenty of cute doors for getting that outfit shot for Instagram…
Anyway, on with the holiday.
On our first day, we wanted to return to our favourite place from last time. So our Bavarian autumnal experience kicked off with a day at Schloss Nymphenburg…
Schloss Nymphenburg is a great big baroque palace with lakes, a forest and botanic gardens in its 500-acre grounds. You can go into the palace – it’s full of the usual impressive ceilings and furniture – but we prefer walking through the grounds.
If you want autumnal scenery, this is it. We’ll let the leaves in the pictures speak for themselves.
There are lots of pavilions dotted about around the lakes and trees. We walked for miles through the woods, looking out for cute black squirrels. Then we sat and talked to some Canada geese for a bit after harassing some poor woman to take a photo of us on ‘our’ bridge (we did it last time so had to recreate).
We then had some lunch at the Schlosscafe im Palmenhaus in the formal gardens. We had a flammkuchen (like a thin pizza with crème fraîche on) and some sausages and chips. You’d expect somewhere in such a big tourist attraction to be overpriced, but it was quite reasonable. We’re going to write a full blog post about eating and drinking in Munich at some point, so will shut up for now about food.
Revived with some sustenance, we had a look round the arboretum and gardens. We tried several times to get a photo of this big koi pond without some woman in a blue coat repeatedly getting in the way.
Oh and also, more autumn colours.
As it was October, there were some Halloween decorations around the place, including this nauseous chap.
Something we’d not seen on our last trip was the Olympiapark, so we headed there in the afternoon.
Olympiastation at Olympiapark
The Olympiapark wasn’t the easiest thing to get to, being more designed for cars, but we found it eventually.
The stadium was built for the 1972 Olympics. It has also hosted the 1974 football world cup final and countless other big European football matches. It was home of Bayern Munich and TSV 1860 Munich until about 10 years ago. It’s renowned for its unusual half-roof, which was very modern in 1972 and still looks futuristic now. You can do a walking tour of the roof… We obviously passed on this.
The stadium is set in a man-made park with lakes and trees, which all looks strangely artificial. Almost like a model landscape.
After the Olympiapark, we headed back into the centre for our evening meal and copious amounts of Augustiner Helles beer.
The next day, we went into the Altstadt (old town) again to retrace old steps and remember how beautiful the buildings in Munich are.
Strangely, you never seem to hear anyone raving about how stunning the architecture in Munich is. Perhaps it is overshadowed by Oktoberfest. But we’ve found Munich to be one of the most visually pleasing cities we’ve been to.
One of the criterion for us really loving a city is how many pretty pastel-coloured streets it has. Bergen and Porto both delivered well for that this year, but we’d forgotten how beautifully colourful the streets of Munich are.
Probably the most recognisable Munich building other than the Rathaus is the Hofbräuhaus, below. It really is huge and definitely worth a visit if this is your first trip to Munich.
In our opinions, there are better beerhalls in Munich, but it’s still worth going to once for the experience.
Another iconic and much-photographed building is the massive Hirmir men’s clothing shop along the main shopping street, Kaufingerstraße. It boasts an impressive collection of window boxes.
Of course, all through the city, the trees were turning golden and setting off the buildings in a new light. St Lukas kirche on the banks of the river Isar was looking particularly good with its gold details next to a golden tree.
Of course, the Neues Rathaus (new town hall) in Marienplatz is the big deal for most visitors.
It hosts the city government, but more importantly, the tourist information office if you need it. Every day at 11am, its glockenspiel clock chimes and little figures reenact a story (a bit like the clock in Prague, if you’ve seen that).
Bavarian National Museum
After reacquainting ourselves with the beauty of the city, we went to the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum). We couldn’t take photos in there, so you’ll just have to imagine a huge museum absolutely jam-packed with everything Bavarian you can imagine.
We were highly amused by just how much stuff they’d crammed in. You really got your money’s worth! We’re not big on ‘old stuff’ and prefer modern art museums, but the sheer volume of artefacts in this was mind-blowing. Paintings, ceramics, china, musical instruments, textiles, a room full of gigantic statues of Jesus. They had it all.
After spending way more time than we’d planned in there, we were dying of hunger so went in search of grub.
The Viktualienmarkt is one of the loveliest markets we’ve been to in Europe – and we tend to visit one in every city we go to. It’s especially nice for autumnal plants – some really nice heather and cyclamen displays that we’d have loved to take home for the garden.
Its main draw is of course, food.
Over 140 stalls with everything you could possibly want to eat (provided you like sausages, of course). We were cold and had a big evening meal coming up, so opted for some homemade chicken noodle broth. This was devoured while people watching – a great activity (provided you like watching people eat sausages, of course).
Haus der Kunst
After lunch, we headed off for our inevitable fix of modern art – it was also good to be indoors for a bit to warm up.
The Haus der Kunst is next to the Englische Garten, which is a must-see but not something we had time for this trip. The art museum building itself was designed by the Nazis and is interesting in itself. Inside, the gallery does not have permanent pieces, but hosts temporary exhibits. It also has a beautiful café bar inside, which is definitely worth a visit in its own right.
Even if, like us, you have absolutely zero interest in water sports, you should pop over to the bridge outside the Haus der Kunst to see some surfing on the Eisbach, a side branch of the river Isar. It’s done on a man-made wave.
We’ve sat and watched surfers in the sea on a few holidays, but we noticed how much more successful they were on this wave. They actually managed to stay up for a fair amount of time.
Still don’t see the appeal, but it’s worth a look – and of course had a glorious backdrop of autumn colour.
The rest of our holiday in Munich was taken up with a day trip to Landsberg am Lech and exploring the many beerhalls Munich has to offer. But we can’t finish a main blog post on Munich without mentioning both our favourite thing about Munich…
Augustiner Bräustuben is our favourite place to eat and drink in Munich. It is the ‘brewery tap’ of the famous Augustiner helles lager, often called the ‘champagne of beer’, something we’ve been mildly obsessed with since our first visit to Munich. It even featured in our wedding. Augustiner Bräustuben is also the perfect cosy haven to escape the autumn chill and be enveloped in Bavarian hospitality.
That’s all we’ll touch on about beer for now, but we will get our full blog post about food and beer in Munich published soon.
In conclusion, we’ve never been anywhere quite so full of autumn colour. Munich is the perfect place for a city break around October time. You can also use it as a base for a good variety of day trips. Salzburg, Neuschwanstein Castle or Nuremburg are all within easy reach, as well as idyllic little Bavarian towns like Landsberg am Lech.
See you in another five years, Munich…
Munich in autumn: useful information
How to get there (and away)
We flew from Manchester airport, which took about two hours. The S1 and S8 S-Bahn trains take you from Munich airport into the centre every 20 minutes. It takes about 45 minutes.
Where to stay
It’s all about the suburbs for us. With such a good train system, staying in the centre and paying more isn’t really worth it. We stayed at Hotel Grünwald Garni in Aubing.
How to get around
Munich’s transport system is a thing of Germanic beauty. Efficient U-Bahns, S-Bahns, trams and buses will get you anywhere you need to go. Much of the city centre is walkable and taking it all in on foot is part of the fun.
When to go
For peak autumn colour, October is perfect. Remember that the infamous Oktoberfest actually happens at the end of September, so it’s much quieter in October itself too, which is a bonus.