Here’s my little guide to Mértola, Portugal, a charming and peaceful walled town set high on a hill overlooking the Guadiana River. It’s in southeastern Alentejo close to the Spanish border and is far from the usual tourist trail. In fact, it’s so far off the beaten track that you might not see another soul on its cobbled streets. I recently spent a day there as part of a longer Portuguese trip and absolutely adored it, so I thought I’d share my recommendations for what to see and do, including some nice restaurants and shops. 

Mértola was once one of the key river ports in the Mediterranean. The town has Neolithic origins, was taken over by the Romans and then later conquered by Moorish invaders: you can see the influence today in the architecture and cuisine. There’s even a church that used to be a mosque, which is on the way up to the castle at the summit of the hill.

The town has proper fairytale vibes with its quiet, winding streets lined with flowers and white-washed buildings. You’d think Mértola had been built to be painted or photographed. It’s the perfect place to spend a lazy afternoon eating and exploring at a relaxed pace. Or that’s what I did anyway, and I suggest you do the same if you go.

If all this sounds up your street, read on for what to do and see in Mértola, Portugal…