A guide to Castle Douglas, Scotland’s food town

Things to do in Castle Douglas, Scotland | PACK THE SUITCASES

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Here’s my short guide to things to do in Castle Douglas in Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland. I’ve filled it with my own personal recommendations on all the delights this historic little market town has to offer: stuff I’ve tried and tested myself. Castle Douglas is the perfect afternoon out if you’re staying in the area and you fancy a bit of shopping, a nice walk around a beautiful loch or gardens, and a LOT of eating and drinking. A lot.

As an official ‘food town’ of Scotland, Castle Douglas is a proper foodie hotspot. It throws regular food fairs, has some delicious cafés, and is full of independent shops to buy artisan local produce. And it’s not just about food. Drinks are also covered as the local brewery makes some of the best beer in Scotland. If you’re staying in a self-catering cottage, Castle Douglas is a good place to go to get some delicious provisions in. You’ll be eating like royalty. It’s also not too far from other lovely towns like Kirkcudbright, Gatehouse of Fleet, and Rockcliffe and Kippford.

If this all sounds up your street, get the kettle on and have a read of my favourite things to do in Castle Douglas…

A few nice things to do in Castle Douglas…

1. Buy some beautiful local art

A visit to Castle Douglas wouldn’t be complete without popping into local artist Angela Lawrence’s shop, Clience Studio. Angela paints stunning landscapes of the local area, many of them coastal. You can buy prints, canvases, watercolours, abstracts and so on but also gifts with her work on, like mugs, coasters, placemats, calendars and notebooks.

If you’re looking for a really lovely souvenir to remember your time in the Galloway region and the Solway coast, this is the place for you.

I have a full set of six placemats and coasters from her shop, featuring Kirkcudbright, Rockcliffe, Kippford, Carrick Bay, and Mossyard. They’re really beautiful. I never have more than two people at my dining table (the thought of having six people round – ugh), so I rotate them so they all get some air time. Every time I look at them, it’s like having a little piece of my favourite area in my house and it makes me very happy.

2. Stroll around the loch – one of the best things to do in Castle Douglas on a sunny day

Carlingwark Loch is a little freshwater loch just on the edge of Castle Douglas and easily walkable from the centre of town. It’s an attractive spot. Going for a walk here is also one of the best things to do in Castle Douglas with dogs; they’ll love sniffing and exploring. Keep an eye out for the human-made islands built into the loch, which have evidence of settlements on them. Archaeologists have found swords, pots and the like there.

The loch is home to some rather overly friendly swans and you may also spot some rare ‘goldeneye’ ducks, which are very cute. They’re on the RSPB’s red list, with only 200 breeding pairs left apparently. They have a very pretty green head and (unsurprisingly with the name) golden eyes.

If you’re lucky enough to visit Castle Douglas on a sunny day, you can do the full circuit of Carlingwark Loch on a really good 90-minute walk (it’s dead easy and flat). It’s known as the Carlingwark Circular, although they’ve clearly missed a trick there by not calling it the Carlingwarkwalk. You start at the campsite, Lochside. Follow the directions on the excellent Walkhighlands blog as they’re far better than how I’d attempt to explain it to you. The only thing I’d add is that it’s mandatory to head for a pint at the Sulwath Brewery once you’ve finished the walk, which leads me nicely onto my next point…

3. Have a 10/10 pint at the Sulwath Brewery

Sulwath Brewery is an absolute treat. Look how happy I am with a crate of their beers in the above photo. Whenever I’m there, I buy a bag or crate of the beer and save some of The Grace (my favourite) for us to have with Christmas dinner. Luckily, they do online ordering too for all the times I ‘forget’ and drink it in August.

Unlike my usual tipple of sour or hoppy IPA beer, Sulwath beers are more traditional bitters. But they’re absolutely spot on and exceedingly high quality. You can find the brewery tucked away down a side road (Google Maps link) in the centre of Castle Douglas. Inside, the brewery is charmingly unpolished. No fancy decor, just a cosy atmosphere, very friendly staff, and always a gaggle of locals by the bar. That’s the kind of vibe you’re after. In normal times, you can go on a tour of the brewery every Monday and Friday at 1pm. But at the moment, you might want to pop them a message on their Facebook page to check whether it’s on. 

Sulwath beers are all named after local stuff, which is a nice touch. For example ‘The Criffel’ is named after a hill of the same name in Dumfries and Galloway (it looks like a massive mountain due to its location – a bit of an optical illusion); ‘The Grace’ is named after the Robert Burns poem ‘The Selkirk Grace’, which is often used as a giving of thanks before people tuck into their Burn’s night feast; and ‘The Galloway Gold’, which is obviously named after the Galloway area.

4. Treat yourself to some independent arty bits at PA Pop-up

I’m a big fan of the pop-up arty cooperative shop (PA Pop-up) on the high street in Castle Douglas. It has sister shops in Kirkcudbright and Gatehouse of Fleet, so it’s worth checking them out too if you’re in the area as they all seem to stock different stuff.

The Castle Douglas branch sells loads of local artists’ and makers’ work, ranging from original paintings (including of local scenes) to postcards, prints, jewellery, cushions, scarves, hand-spun yarn and more. It’s excellent for finding quirky and creative bits. You could easily spend ages (and a small fortune) in there. Look out for the paper creations made from old maps of the Galloway area, the black-and-white prints of local wildlife, and the gorgeous cushions with birds and feathers on: any of these would make a lovely and unusual present.

5. Browse the stalls at the Producers’ Market

Castle Douglas Producers’ Market runs on the third Sunday of every month. You can find it on The Markethill, next to the main car park in town. It kicks off at 11am and shuts at 3pm. Bring a big tote bag because it’s impossible to leave empty-handed.

Seeing as it’s Castle Douglas and food is the big deal in town, there are a lot of food stalls. But if you’re after homewares or art/crafty stuff, you’ll manage to find something you definitely ‘need’ too.

Some really nice stalls to look out for are:

  • Sulwath Brewery – well, obviously!
  • Timeless Galloway Crafts – they make adorable picnic tables for garden birds, as well as other things, but the bird picnic tables melt my heart.
  • Dark Art Distillery – they do amazing gin. I mention them in my Kirkcudbright blog post.
  • Ferry Fish – they sell local fish and seafood, and their stall is rightly incredibly popular with locals so you’ll spot them by the sizeable queue. They were kind enough to give me a complimentary box of scallops, mackerel and local crab last time I was in the area as they’d been reading my blog. I was under no obligation to mention them or anything, it was just a very kind gesture. I was staying in a self-catering cottage and had three nights of delicious meals. Honestly some of the best seafood I’ve eaten on all my travels all over the world (shame my photo doesn’t do it justice but the lighting in the cottage was dire!).
  • The Stockbridge Mac & Cheese Co – another great shout if you’re staying in a self-catering place for your visit.
  • The Bees Wing – they make bespoke lampshades, which they attach to old alcohol bottles to make a quirky and unique feature.

There seem to be new stalls every time I go, so I’ll probably have to update this at regular intervals. If you have a favourite I’ve not mentioned, let me know in the comments and I’ll have a nose at what they sell next time I’m up.

6. Live out your Chocolat dreams

In House Chocolates sell delicious chocolate, which is all handmade in Castle Douglas itself. You can’t get more local than that. And the chocolate is absolutely brilliant, which is why they win all kinds of awards.

You know the book Chocolat by Joanne Harris? Well, going into this shop is a bit like visiting Vianne’s chocolaterie. Only you’re not in a remote French village, you’re in Castle Douglas, so it’s a bit easier to get there.

You can sit in for a hot chocolate, probably the best I’ve ever had, while deciding which chocolates to buy to take home. Look out for the little Belted Galloway cow ones (the local rare-breed and very cute cow) as they make a really nice present.

7. Have lunch and buy some gifts from Designs Gallery and Cafe

I discovered this fantastic café-under-a-shop, Designs Gallery & Cafe, many many years ago when hunting out a lunch spot to go with my mum and dad. And I’ve been back countless times since because it’s so good.

Designs is one of those places where you can get a proper lunch-sized portion of food, not a humungous meal but not a snack either. I often struggle to find places that fit these criteria, so I love it. The menu is very veggie-friendly, which suits me, and features lots of soups, pitta, salads, wraps, sandwiches and toasties as well as a whole range of bruschetta. They also do various eggs benedict/florentine/royale etc and I deffo recommend the florentine. You also have to leave a bit of room for dessert as the cake selection is outstanding. I almost always go for a good old scone with jam and cream, though.   

Above the café is the gallery/shop part of Designs. It’s a proper treasure trove and I always come away with something unusual, often a present for someone (including myself). One of their mugs, handmade by a local artisan ceramics company, now lives with my friends in Tokyo! Anyway, they have all kinds of unique homewares, arts, jewellery, cushions, books, candles, cards, clothes and gifts. It’s one of the prettiest shops imaginable and you can lose a good hour having a rootle in there. Keep an eye out for the beautiful dressing gowns. One day I’m going to buy one. I’ve been slowly working my way up to spending far too much on a dressing gown for a few years now. Watch this space.

8. Buy some bits for your home

There’s nothing I enjoy more than buying yet more things for my house, even though I have far too much stuff already. I can always find room for one more cushion. You just have to rotate them with the seasons.

Castle Douglas has two beautiful interiors shops so I’m lumping them together into one point here. There are other shops that sell nice homewares as well, such as Designs, but these two almost exclusively sell house stuff:

  • Tessera – this does lamps, mirrors, clocks, fake but very realistic house plants, pots, and soft furnishings. I bought some beautiful candle holders from here years ago and they’re still one of my favourite things in my house. I’ve just been on their Facebook page and they’re currently selling a red squirrel tea towel, which obviously I need. Need!
  • Country House Interiors – this stocks all the usual homewares but also some larger furniture, which is nice to browse as a visitor even if you can’t fit it in your suitcase. They always have lovely Scottish-themed cushions in (think Highland/Belted Galloway cows and thistles on tartan backdrops).

9. Indulge in some baked treats from Earth’s Crust Bakery – one of the best things to do in Castle Douglas if you’re planning a picnic

Continuing with the inevitable foodie theme, another of the best things to do in Castle Douglas is to visit the wonderful artisan Earth’s Crust Bakery to get some takeaway treats. If you’re after a good spread for a picnic or if you’re staying in a self-catering cottage locally and need to get brunch/lunch bits in, this is a real find.

They do their own sourdough and all kinds of other savoury delights like pies, frittata and quiche. But for me it’s all about the sweet goods. Around Easter, the hot cross buns are the BEST. Any other time of year, get the rhubarb and custard Danish pastries and the brownies. Too good. Oh and they also do pizza nights on Fridays so you could get a takeaway pizza if you’re staying locally. I’ve not done this yet but it’s on my list for my next visit as I’m pretty certain they’d be amazing.

Earth’s Crust isn’t just a bakery, either. They also have a small grocery shop bit selling other local artisan and ethical products, including plenty of vegan goods. There’s a refill section so you can take your own containers to restock your cupboards.

10. Indulge in some fine dining at Mr Pook’s Kitchen

Mr Pook’s Kitchen is one of those innovative, classy little gems that I almost don’t want to share (luckily my blog has pretty much no impact). It opened a few years ago in the old bank building on the high street, which is a very nice setting. Everything they serve has been thought about carefully, the service is lovely, and the cocktails are excellent. If you’re after a slightly fancier meal for one of your nights in the area, this is it. I really recommend going, and I’ve already told a few friends to book when they’ve asked me for tips in the area. It’s been a resounding hit.

As you might expect with Castle Douglas, Mr Pook’s Kitchen is all about the quality local produce and they even source some of their ingredients by foraging. The menu features lots of Galloway legends like Kirkcudbright scallops. There are always specials on as well, so if you’re returning for a second visit it doesn’t get same-y. Oh and if you’re vegetarian, you can ask and they have a few extra things they can do for you, although the main menu does have some delicious veggie options anyway. 

If Mr Pook’s was located where I live in Cheshire or where I work in Manchester, it would be obscenely expensive. But it’s great value for how special it is. A main is about £15-18 for fish or veg options. I don’t eat meat so didn’t take note of those prices but I don’t think it’s much more. 

11. Browse for antique and restored furniture for your home

If you like a good rummage around an antique or secondhand shop, there are two to choose from in Castle Douglas.

AD Livingston & Sons Furniture is a furniture shop down an enticing little alleyway lined with some lovely garden chairs and wicker baskets. This leads you to their shop, which is full of beautifully restored pieces. I really like industrial-style dining tables and they had a very nice one in last time I was there. Sadly it wouldn’t fit in my suitcase, but they do sell small things like the baskets, which are a bit easier to get home if something takes your fancy.

The other place to browse is Hazel’s Antiques (which has no website but here’s the Google Maps link). This is a real higgledy-piggledy Aladdin’s cave down a side road, selling all kinds of second-hand bits and bobs. It’d be great for getting some mismatched old chairs to upcycle but it also has smaller bits like vases and picture frames.

12. Stock up your cupboards at Harris & Co

A foodie town obviously needs a foodie shop. Harris & Co is both foodie and drinkie (?!) and stocks a huge range of artisan produce. If you wanted to put together a hamper, this would be your first port of call. And I know I’ve said this a few times throughout this post, but if you’re doing a picnic or you’re staying at a self-catering cottage locally, Castle Douglas is going to sort you right out.

I came out with a very full bag when I visited Harris & Co on my last trip to the area. They stock too much nice stuff; it’s dangerous. Every wall is covered with shelves of interesting jars, bottles and packets. Food-wise they do local cheeses, fish, meat, jams, chutneys, preserves, oils, posh teabags, dips/spreads, chocolates and all kinds of tasty savoury nibbles. Drink-wise, I know nothing about wine but they stock orange wine, which was one of my discoveries travelling in Slovenia and I’m obsessed with it. There’s also a lot of beer, cider, gin, whisky, rum and cocktail ingredients.

Happy browsing/eating.

13. Explore Threave Garden and Estate…

After all that eating and drinking, it’s time to waddle it off with some National Trust action. A visit here is one of the best things to do in Castle Douglas if you like wandering round gorgeous gardens (who doesn’t?!).

Threave Garden is a beautiful National Trust garden only a five-minute drive from Castle Douglas centre. You could also walk it. It’s a mile and a half from the town and I’m fairly sure the road had a pavement the whole way, including going past the aforementioned loch.

Threave is probably one of my favourite National Trust haunts. The garden is divided into different areas, and has water features, a walled garden, a rose garden, woodland and rockeries. It’s looked after by students at the National Trust for Scotland’s School of Heritage Gardening. You can also buy plants from around the side of the gift shop. Speaking of which, the gift shop at Threave is really good. It has all the usual scarves/mugs etc that would make good birthday/Christmas presents for your mum. Obviously, there’s a cafe too, because this is the National Trust and people need scones.

There’s also a house in the grounds, which I’ve never actually been into but I believe you can go around. Let me know in the comments if it’s worth it next time I’m up. And you might see a selection of wildlife (namely bats, red squirrels and wildfowl) at Threave. Pause at the red squirrel feeding station and see if you can spot some of the little cuties coming for their lunch.

However, although the gardens, café and shop are excellent, the main attraction for me when at Threave is the Belties…

13a) … and have a ride on Threave’s resident Belties

Ah, the pièce de résistance of Threave. In the gardens, you’ll find this entire family of life-size model Belted Galloways.

As I explained briefly further up this post, ‘Belties’ are the local flavour of cow. With their distinct black-and-white coats and stylish ‘belt’, they’re a real eyecatcher of a bovine and a must-see on any trip to Dumfries and Galloway. I normally spot some near Kirkcudbright but if you don’t manage to meet any real ones on your visit, you still have the option of a selfie with a less mobile version of them at Threave.

Fun fact: Threave’s Belties are specifically designed to be sat on by women in their mid-30s and are definitely not a feature for children. Phew.

14. Get the little boat to Threave Castle

Not to be confused with Threave the National Trust place I’ve talked about just above, Threave Castle is a completely separate thing. It was once the family home of the Black Douglas line of the House of Douglas, and was built in 1369. It sits proudly on an island in the middle of the River Dee and is only reachable by boat. How cool is that?

You can get to the castle by starting at the car park and following a pretty 10-minute pootle through fields and past woods. Once at the shore of the River Dee, you’ll see the castle ahead. But how do you get across, I (don’t) hear you cry? At the small jetty, there’s a brass bell with a rope pull. Give it a good old ring and the boat will come across to collect you. Don’t tell me that’s not mildly exciting for everyone involved.

Threave Castle is now run by Historic Environment Scotland. It’s £6 to get into the castle but this also covers the short boat journey from the river bank. Make sure you check their opening times as they do change throughout the year.

Things to do in Castle Douglas, Scotland: useful information

Where to stay near Castle Douglas

There are a few places to stay in Castle Douglas itself, but I recommend basing yourself in the nearby town of Kirkcudbright. This is where I always stay and it’s a great base if you want to explore the wider Galloway area. I go into more detail in my guide to Kirkcudbright, but in short I’d go for The Selkirk Arms or the Kirkcudbright Bay Hotel if you want a nice double room in a cosy hotel. If you’re in a group, then a self-catering option such as The Yellow Door or 3 Mews Lane can work out quite affordable.

If you do want to stay in Castle Douglas, there are a few options centrally:

  • For a hotel, have a look at The Market Inn Hotel (around £95 a night).
  • For a B&B, check out Douglas House (around £99 a night).
  • If you’re travelling in a group/family and want a holiday home, I like the look of The Coop (around £160 a night but has two rooms).

All prices are correct at the time of writing. 

When to go to Castle Douglas

It’s pretty much always an acceptable level of busyness anywhere in Dumfries and Galloway. You don’t ever get huge crowds of tourists. But I always recommend Scotland in late summer or spring, avoiding the school holidays with your largest of bargepoles (and bearing in mind that different regions have different school holidays). These seasons tend to have the nicest weather.

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15 Comments

  1. Thank you. Very well researched piece on a lovely little place. I’d also mention Threave Hardware and Streetlights cafe!

    1. Thank you very much indeed! I’ll give Streetlights a try next time but I’m afraid I don’t tend to do hardware shops on my holidays haha – maybe if I ever break something where I’m staying!

  2. Another fabulous post, as usual. Love love love the Belties. I’ve sat on them for a photo many a time. They don’t go very fast do they? Keep up the great work xxx

  3. Some great recommendations here. We’re regulars to the area and didn’t know some of them. Thank you for another great post. We have been following you for years now and always enjoy them.

  4. How have I never heard of Castle Douglas?! To be honest, I’m glad I haven’t because that means it has true hidden gem potential. And that grin on your face holding the crate of beers says it all – I’m sold! The one thing I have to disagree with you on is your statement that your blog has no impact. Pshh, I beg to differ!

  5. Hi, thank you for the interesting blog re Castle Douglas. We are going for a few days at the end of the week, our third time in Dumfriesshire this year. We would be particularly interested in dog friendly shops/ cafes/ pubs as the weather is a bit chilly now to sit outside!

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