A guide to visiting Gozo, Malta, without a car: things to do by bus

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Here are some things to do in Gozo without a car, if you’re there for a short visit or day trip. Most guidebooks and websites will recommend hiring a car to see Gozo, but if like me you don’t drive or don’t want to drive abroad, it’s definitely possible to do by bus and on foot, so I thought I’d put together some ideas.

Gozo is Malta’s smaller and quieter neighbour, a much more rural and green land with some beautiful scenery along its rugged coastlines. Its landscape is punctuated with myriad Baroque churches and crumbling old stone farmhouses. The pace of life here is slower and the locals are more relaxed, giving the island a dreamlike quality. Lovers of Greek mythology will also like the fact that Gozo is said to be the legendary island of Ogygia, where Odysseus meets the nymph Calypso in Homer’s epic Odyssey.

If that sounds up your street, here are a few things to do in Gozo without a car that I recommend…

Things to do in Gozo without a car: intro

Before we get into what to do on Gozo, let me give you a quick bit of background to the island.

Gozo is part of the Maltese archipelago in the Mediterranean Sea, just north of its sister Malta. Gozo is only 67 square kilometres and is home to about 37,000 people. 

The locals are not Maltese, despite Malta being such a close neighbour. They’re known as Gozitans and they speak their own dialect, different even from Malta. They also pride themselves on Gozo being ‘how Malta used to be’, with the unsaid addition of ‘before tourists ruined it’ I imagine. 

Gozo used to be known for the famous Azure Window, a natural limestone arch in the sea, which collapsed in 2017. Despite this untimely death, there are still plenty of things to do in Gozo and it remains a popular day trip for tourists from Malta as well as somewhere for a longer stay for those into hiking or water-based activities (definitely not me, then).

Things to do in Gozo, Malta’s little neighbour

1. Geek out on history at the Citadel in Victoria

One of the best places to visit in Gozo is the citadel, located in the capital city of Victoria. Victoria is also known as Rabat, just to confuse tourists. The citadel is a 16th-century hilltop fortress, although the area was built on long before that. It’s been carefully restored and is overflowing with museums within its walls, as well as some very tasteful flowerpots. Some of the buildings within the citadel are in ruins but in a nice shabby chic kind of way. Wildflowers grow in among the rubble. 

But the citadel’s main attraction is the incredible view from the highest point of its walls. You can see almost the whole island from here. There are also two chapels within the citadel and when you reach the top to see the view, you’ll see that the countryside is also absolutely teaming with churches. They do love a church or 10 around here.

Admission to the citadel itself is free, but you have to pay if you want to go into the cathedral or the archaeology museum. There’s also an old prison on site so you can have a go in the stocks for some amusing photos.

2. Try some locally brewed beer at Lord Chambray brewery

If you’re a craft beer enthusiast, you’ll find that all over Malta, Lord Chambray beer is your one local option. Everything else seems to be Cisk and Heineken generic rubbish. Luckily, Lord Chambray is very drinkable in all its forms.

I’d read that the Lord Chambray brewery is on Gozo, so decided to hunt it out when I visited the island. It seemed that I may have been the first (and possibly last) to do this via the 303 bus. The driver looked baffled at anyone alighting in seemingly the middle of nowhere, even though it’s less than 10 minutes from Victoria. But it was the right location and quite easy to do, so I’m recommending it for anyone into craft beer.

The brewery is in Gozitano Agricultural Village, which is essentially an industrial estate off a big road not very far from the centre of Victoria. It’s surrounded by floral fields and you’d never think there was anything there until you turn a corner and find it.

You can actually book a brewery tour if you phone ahead. I didn’t, for fear it’d be one of those awkward tours where they’ve had to open it up just for you and there’s no one else there. But it’s enough to sit at the bar and sample some of their excellent (and seasonal) beers, having a chat with another visitor and the friendly bar staff.

Definitely worth a visit. The beer is top quality.

3. Try a delicious Gozo ftira for lunch

The local delicacy on the island is a ftira, a type of ring-shaped, leavened bread. Malta does its own version but Gozo deviates from this and makes the ftira more like a pizza, served open, or folded like a calzone. They’re usually topped with local cheese, spinach and fish. You can’t visit Gozo without trying one of these bad boys.

Interestingly, the government of Malta managed to get the ftira added to UNESCO’s list of food with Intangible Cultural Heritage. That’s how proud of it they are. I’m sure you’ll understand once you’ve consumed one. Or two. A day.

Like in many European countries, bread is a daily staple on Gozo and bakeries are a crucial part of local life. There are only two bakeries on Gozo that do traditional ftira, though. These are Mekren’s and Maxokk. They’re located about a 10-minute walk from each other in Nadur, a small village with what must be a big bakery rivalry. You can reach Nadur in about 15 minutes on the 303 bus and then take your pick of which bakery appeals most for a lunchtime ftira. Just don’t start a turf war between the two… it’s the yeast you could do.

4. Get lost in the winding streets of Victoria

The streets of Victoria, with their honey-coloured walls and flowery balconies, are very similar to those you’ll experience in Malta. However, they don’t have anywhere near the same volume of crowds, so you’re free to wander without bumping into people. Beautiful. This is also great for photographs because you don’t need to awkwardly hover waiting for people to get out of the shot.

Republic Street in Victoria is full of shops and cafés to browse but the real joy of the city is to be found by getting off the beaten path and exploring its quiet side streets.

5. Use the hop-on-hop-off bus tour to see the island

It’s very rare I recommend using one of these, so please don’t think I’ve lost the plot…

Gozo’s public bus service is decent but if you’re short of time or on a quick day trip to Gozo, it can actually make sense to get onto its hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus. This will take you to 14 stops around Gozo’s attractions over 2.5 hours. It comes every 45 minutes so you can spend a decent amount of time in places without rushing. Double-check arrangements on the official website though in case something has changed or it’s a national holiday.

The hop-on-hop-off bus picks you up from the Mgarr Harbour ferry terminal. You can buy tickets on board or in advance online from Get Your Guide, which takes some of the faff away if you like to be super organised.

6. Buy some souvenirs from Victoria’s independent shops

I don’t know about you but I love having a browse when I’m abroad and seeing whether there’s anything that catches my eye (luggage allowance permitting).

I found some really nice little shops in Victoria. I’m sure there are more but these are my recommendations:

• Organika – A gorgeous little shop that sells fair trade and organic bits and bobs like soap, jewellery and condiments but also some excellent postcards. They have a huge selection of scarves so head here if you find yourself shivering on a sunny-but-windy day on Gozo.
• Bejta Artisan at The Ta’ Nikol Gallery – This gallery and shop are crammed with local arts and crafts, all made on Gozo by talented locals. It’s full of things you’ll actually want to buy rather than things that would look weird in your house, which is an issue I have with lots of arty gift shops.
• Vogue Xchange – I wasn’t expecting to find an amazing vintage/secondhand clothes shop in Victoria but here it is. The collections are well curated and very reasonably priced. There’s a big focus on sustainability without losing style.
• Jubilee Foods – If you like buying preserves and other easily transportable food, look no further. You can get local prickly pear jam here as well as honey, herbal teas and sea salt. They’re all very artisan-looking and nicely packaged so make perfect presents for foodie friends/family, too.

7. Admire the imposing St George’s Basilica in Independence Square

St George’s Basilica is a striking 17th-century church in the centre of Victoria. Although it’s not as ornate as St John’s in Malta, if you’ve not been to that one to compare then you’ll be thoroughly impressed. Escape from the hustle and bustle of tourists outside and take in all the gold and detail in its interior. It’s free to get in but if you want to go up the dome, it’s 3€ to use the lift.

The square outside St George’s is probably the busiest place in Victoria. It’s a good place to pause for a drink and do some people watching as locals meet up and go about their daily business. There’s a small daily market if you want to browse a few stalls.

8. See the working salt pans at Xwejni Bay Salt Pans

I’ve never been to a salt pan before nor did I ever think I’d be recommending them on my blog, but here we are. I think it’s worth seeing something unusual now and again.

The strange lunar appearance of the rock-cut saltpans makes for a really interesting landscape and photo opportunity. You’re not allowed to walk on them though because the pans are still very much in use and worked by Gozo salt farmers. This isn’t some historical ruin – it’s modern-day salty action. If you’re lucky, one of the salt farmers might be around and chat to you.

Back in Gozo, you can buy some local salt to take home. But there’s nothing else around the salt pans, so you’ll want to get the next bus back to Gozo after enjoying a walk around.

Bus 310 from Victoria will deposit you a 10-minute walk from the Xwejni Bay Salt Pans. The journey is about 15 minutes.

9. Enjoy a wine-tasting evening at Tal-Massar Winery

Malta has a strong tradition of making fine wine and one of its best-known wineries is Tal-Massar Winery in the tiny medieval village of Gharb on Gozo. The winery hosts twice-weekly, 90-minute tours that you can join. You get to see their beautiful estate and taste several wines, which are clearly made with passion by the family who own it. They also serve up some tasty local nibbles that you can enjoy under a veranda with pretty views of the countryside.

You need to email the winery through their website to book a place on the tour in advance. Bus 312 from Victoria will take you near the winery and the owner will meet you there. If you’re only on Gozo for the day, they will even sort you a taxi back to get the last evening ferry to Malta. It’s a lovely experience and definitely one for any wine enthusiasts.

10. See some of Gozo’s many churches 

As mentioned above, Gozo is absolutely teeming with churches. If you’re not already churched out after visiting Malta, there are plenty of churches with stunning architecture that you should check out on Gozo. They do love a church or two around here.

Ghajnsielem Church, which you can walk to from Mgarr harbour in about 10 minutes, is very pretty. You’ll see it from the ferry terminal.

The stand out church for me though is probably the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. You can find it just outside the citadel and it’s an especially pretty sight. Inside you’ll find the usual tombs and artwork, as well as some snazzy floor tiles.

Be aware that you’ll have to cover up when you go in if you’re wearing a short-sleeved top because shoulders are so so scandalous apparently. I was in a long-sleeved blouse but once I was inside, I noticed some other women being asked to put shawls on at the door. If that doesn’t bother you, do go in and shawl up. But if like me, being asked to change your attire because of the horror of an exposed arm would put you off bothering, it’s enough just to admire the stunning architecture outside.

It’s 3€ to enter (not included in the citadel admission fee) and this also covers the small cathedral museum.

11. Visit the impressive Ta Pinu National Shrine

Ta’ Pinu National Shrine is out in the open countryside, set in a rather barren backdrop that only emphasises its size. The architectural details are amazing and it’s no wonder that it’s one of the most popular things to do in Gozo.

The shrine is ancient, although the first records of it are from 1534. There are lots of stories of miracles and strange things happening here. One of them is set in the 16th century, when the shrine was closed because it was in a right old state. It was even due to be demolished, but legend has it that when a construction worker gave it a whack with a pickaxe, he broke his arm. This was taken as a divine message so they decided to do it up instead. Seems a bit harsh on the builder, doesn’t it? 

I’d only recommend visiting the Ta’ Pinu National Shrine if you’re on the hop-on-hop-off bus. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck there ages wasting time waiting for the next bus after you’ve already seen the shrine. Make sure to let the driver know you’re only going out to take some quick photos (you can whiz in and out if you’re quick, too).

You can also get there by the 308 bus if you’re especially interested in properly seeing inside it and want a longer trip. Note that like the cathedral, you’ll have to cover your scandalous shoulders. 

12. Wander around Mgarr harbour – one of the things to do in Gozo just before you leave

This is where the ferry deposits you and where you have to return to if you ever want to leave Gozo.

If you know when your next ferry home is and you have time, don’t just linger in the terminal – see a bit of the harbour. It’s surprisingly nice for what could just be a transactional area.

There are some seafront cafés and places to watch the boats coming and going. You’ll also see the lovely Lourdes Chapel and Fort Chambray, a fancy private residence, looming at the top of the hills.

Things to do in Gozo without a car: in summary

I didn’t have a massive amount of time in Gozo when I visited, nor the best weather at all (as you can probably tell from my rather grey photographs). But I actually preferred it to Malta. If you’ve read my posts from Malta, you’ll know I didn’t love the place. Gozo also wasn’t my new favourite destination or somewhere I’d rush back to, but compared with Malta it feels much more ‘real’ and less touristy.

Gozo also has a more relaxed vibe and feels more like a real place where locals are going about their lives rather than somewhere centred on tourism. The scenery is outstanding, and I’m sure would have been even better with a bit of sunshine on it. Despite the poor weather, I found there were plenty of indoor and outdoor things to do in Gozo without a car and certainly enough to fill a day trip. I hope you find this post useful if you’re doing the same as me. Long live the buses, eh? Leave me a comment below to let me know how your Gozo trip goes.

Things to do in Gozo, Malta: useful information

How to get there (and away)

To get to Gozo, you have to get the ferry from Malta. If you’re staying near Valletta, get the number 42 bus from Valletta bus station to Cirkewwa (where the ferries are at). It takes about an hour. At Cirkewwa, get the ferry (which is very cheap if you’re boarding as foot passengers – about 4€). You pay on the way back (they assume you want to return to Malta!). The crossing takes about half an hour and leaves quite regularly, especially in the busy summer months. Once you’re on board the ferry, head up to the upper deck to enjoy some beautiful views of the islands. The ferry deposits you in Mgarr Harbour on Gozo.

Where to stay

There are places to stay on Gozo. But unless you’re very outdoorsy or you can swim/are into watery activities (i.e. the antithesis of me!) it’s probably not somewhere to stay for more than a few nights as it is only a small island.

But if you fancy staying over to see more than a day trip can offer, here are my recommendations. All prices are at the time of writing:

• Treat yo’self: If you want a proper fancy room for the night, check out the super stylish Duke Boutique Hotel. At around 165€ a night for a room with a balcony, it’s on the expensive side. But it’s really beautiful and would be a nice treat. 
• Mid-range: At around 87€ a night, Casa Gemelli Boutique Guesthouse is a brilliant option and would be my top pick. It even has stunning views of the citadel from some of the rooms, which all look beautiful. Breakfast is in an idyllic courtyard outside.
• Budget: If you don’t want to splurge on somewhere to stay, 39 St George is only about 101€ a night but is bang in the centre of town and doesn’t look like budget accommodation one bit. It’s more of a boutique hotel that happens to be reasonably priced.

How to get around

In case you’d not gathered already from the entirety of this post, Gozo is all about the buses if you’re not hiring a car. Gozo has an okay bus service – very cheap but not all that frequent, being quite rural of course. So make sure you’ve got your timetable and don’t miss your bus back. There are 10 bus routes in Gozo with buses running every hour in each direction. The 301 between Victoria (Rabat) and the ferry terminal operates every 30 minutes.

When to go

Like much of Europe, Malta and Gozo are at their best in spring or late summer. However, I went to them in April and it rained all week and was very cold, so do be prepared for any weather. Again like with most cities, avoid the height of summer if you don’t want to be surrounded by people and too-hot weather.

Further reading

If you’re planning a trip, you might also like my other Malta posts:

• 26 things to do in Valletta, Malta’s tiny capital city
• A guide to visiting Mdina, Malta: the silent city
• How to visit one of Malta’s sandy beaches: Ghajn Tuffieha [coming soon].

I’d also recommend reading up on what Maltese residents have to say about their island. For example, a fellow blogger has reported on her experience as an American ex-pat living in Malta.

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You might also like my other Malta-based posts:

• 26 things to do in Valletta, Malta
• A guide to visiting Mdina, Malta: the silent city
• How to visit one of Malta’s sandy beaches: Ghajn Tuffieha.

And if you’ve used one of my travel guides and enjoyed it, you can also buy me a drink. Cheers. 

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