Where to eat in Funchal, Madeira: the best restaurants and cafés

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If you’re looking for the best restaurants in Funchal and where to eat in Madeira more generally, you’re in for a treat. There is a real foodie scene on the island, with plenty of traditional places but also some hipster cafés and posh options. I’ve sampled so many restaurants there over the years that I feel a) fat and b) confident to recommend my favourites. 

I love Madeira and I love eating so this is my expert guide to combining the two: I’ve listed the best restaurants in Funchal, as well as the best cafés, snack bars and bakeries, and a few good places I’ve eaten in other towns around the island too. Obviously, all this food needs washing down with some booze so don’t miss my other post on the best bars in Funchal. And I’ve got a HUGE guide to things to do in Funchal that don’t involve eating, which may be useful too.

I should also add that although Madeira produces a lot of its own delicious fruit and vegetables, finding vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Funchal and Madeira generally requires research. It’s definitely a meat-heavy place. But there are options out there and I’ve included plenty in this guide.

Please note: I update this guide on my regular trips to Madeira, adding new finds and removing anything that’s closed down as frequently as I can. But if you spot anything listed that may have closed, please comment to let me know. Feel free to leave your own recommendations too!

Anyway, dig out all your clothes with elasticated waistbands. Let’s get onto the eating… 

The best restaurants in Funchal, Madeira

Zarcos – for the heartiest portions of all restaurants in Funchal

Rua Conde Carvalhal 136A, Funchal

Zarcos (don’t be put off by its retro website) is a Funchal institution. Make sure you arrive hungry. The portions are large. Zarcos is always full of locals, has a great atmosphere and is 100% worth making the journey slightly out of the city centre to visit. It’s only a brief bus or taxi journey from the centre of Funchal. It is worth the effort. GO.

Although it’s famous for its steaks, it also does really good fish, and you get a generous portion of veg with everything. And they do excellent maize cubes (milho frito), one of my favourite Madeiran treats. You have to order a portion of those, whatever else you get. I also recommend the passion fruit (maracuja) mousse, which I have to have at least twice every time I’m in Funchal. Madeira loves all things maracuja so there are a lot of maracuja-based desserts around. But the mousse is my favourite.

Zarcos is also a good place to get yourself a poncha, Madeira’s delicious official alcoholic drink. It’s lethal and goes down like lemonade. Be warned. If you get into poncha, I have a whole guide to bars in Funchal so you can find the best ones.

Rustikus – for superb lunchtime deals

Rua da Conceição 67, 9050-026 Funchal

If I’m after a delicious prata do dia (lunchtime deal), Rustikus is my go-to restaurant in Funchal. It’s tucked away off one of the busiest squares in town and if you want to have lunch there, I’d recommend going prepared to queue because it’s so popular with locals. But the queue is worth it.

Their lunch menu is typically a handful of options. One is meat and another fish, so pescatarians will be fine, but I don’t think there’s always a veggie option. Every dish (at the time of writing) is 6,90€. This is incredible value because it’s all beautifully cooked and presented, as well as being a generous portion. The carrot/courgette flowers are always a nice touch! Also, the atmosphere is great and the staff are very friendly. You can see why it’s so popular. 

5 Sentidos – one of the best restaurants in Funchal for seafood 

Rua Ponte São Lázaro 5 Ground floor, R. da Ponte de São Lázaro 5 R/c, 9000-027, Funchal

5 Sentidos is relatively new, but it’s already become a firm favourite for me. I even sent my mum and dad there when they called at Funchal on a cruise.

The menu is small (always a good sign) and everything is fresh and delicious. Although they do vegetarian options, I recommend going for the parrotfish if you eat seafood. Parrotfish can be tricky to get in some countries so it’s a treat I always go for in Madeira. And 5 Sentidos does it beautifully; the best I’ve ever had in Madeira. I’ve had it really dry and disappointing at other restaurants as I don’t think it’s the easiest of fish to cook well. Oh and the desserts are spectacular so leave room for one. The chocolate tart with salted caramel and cherry is a particular beauty.

If you’re like me and like having your best meal on the last night of your trip so that you ‘end on a high’, save this restaurant for that. 

Afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace (vegetarian friendly)

Estrada Monumental 139, Funchal

It’s no secret that I enjoy afternoon tea. In fact, I’ve consumed so many tiny cakes and finger sandwiches over the years that I’d probably be classed as an expert. And the Reid’s Palace one tops my charts for best afternoon tea ever. 

Reid’s is a big (pink!) posh old hotel and the afternoon tea is served on a balcony overlooking the sea and the city. It’s not that cheap, at 30€ish a head, so the first time we went, I was ready to be disappointed for the price. But I wasn’t, and I think it works out good value. I’ve paid more for very average afternoon tea at home in the UK. At Reid’s, it’s all top quality and they don’t scrimp on quantity either. Tea is unlimited and you can have seconds of both the sandwiches and the scones. Someone needs to push them to their limits and try to eat 3 scones. Please contact me if you manage this.

Also, I’m always telling people that Madeira isn’t just a holiday destination for old people (honestly, it really isn’t) but just be warned: in Reid’s Palace, you will be bringing the average age down if you’re under 60. But that’s fine – the OAPs can spot a good scone a mile off.

Reid’s is vegetarian-friendly and also does a pescetarian option. You just have to let them know when you book.

Kampo by Julio Pereira – the most special of all restaurants in Funchal

Rua do Sabão 6, 9000-058 Funchal

Kampo is a fairly swanky restaurant in Funchal centre and one I’ve been raving about for a while. Most restaurants in Funchal are uniquely Madeiran: tasty and simple. This is great but they don’t do the kind of ‘foodie’ experience that you might expect to be able to find when you want a treat. Kampo stands up there with the best places I’ve eaten in many European cities. 

Kampo has got a really inventive, contemporary and seasonal menu, without being at all pretentious. There’s an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work over the bar. Head chef Julio Pereira is clearly very passionate about the food. The menu changes regularly but if the white chocolate, olive and passion fruit dessert is available, please order it and enjoy it for me…

Basically, if you’re in Madeira for a birthday, anniversary or other special occasion and want to enjoy a fancy meal, this is where to go. It’s spot on.

Restaurante Dos Combatentes – one of the oldest restaurants in Funchal

Rua de São Francisco, 1; Rua Ivens, 1 e 2

Combatentes is one of the stalwarts of all the popular, well-established restaurants in Funchal. You’ll find it in all the guidebooks and recommended by locals too. In fact, it was the first place I ever ate in Madeira, years ago. And it totally deserves to be such a staple of the Madeira eating scene. I’ve been back again and again over the years and it’s always a solid choice for good, honest homemade food with the typical big portions of veg you get in traditional Portuguese places.

Combatentes caters to vegetarians with tasty stuffed tomatoes and veg, but it’s more of a fish-based menu.

Also, it’s very central, handily close to Blandy’s and all the shops if you want to eat straight after doing something else.

Snack Bar Bela 5 – a classic Madeiran snack bar

Rua Bela São Tiago 5A, Funchal

Snack Bar Bela 5 is my best-loved snack bar in Funchal and somewhere I always adore returning to. In case you’re unfamiliar with the concept of a snack bar, let me explain. It’s more than just a bar that does a bit of food.

Snack bars are cosy family-run affairs that serve drinks and hot/cold snacks, all at incredibly cheap prices. Some of them also serve full meals – again, very cheap. They’re all about quality homemade food. Sitting in one gives you a good insight into local life. Locals pop in and out throughout the day and there’s usually an old man reading a newspaper in the corner. At the end of the day, they tend to give away, or sell at a massive discount, bags of unused food to regulars who call in. I clocked this happening in Bela 5 a few years ago and then spotted it in other snack bars around the city. It made me think how disgraceful it is how few places do this at home. What a waste. Just another reason why Madeira has got it spot-on when it comes to food.

Bela 5 is a lovely snack bar to start with if you want to enter into the wonderful world of Funchal’s snack bars. The staff are very friendly and the menu is small and excellent. I’ve never been to Madeira and not eaten here, that’s how much I love it.

A Tendinha – for a bargainous lunch

Travessa dos Reis 5, 9000-735 Funchal

If you’re after somewhere simple, cheap and typically Madeiran for lunch, go to A Tendinha. This is another excellent snack bar. The menu is written on the whiteboard outside the door, updated every day. If that isn’t a good sign, I don’t know what is.

The menu normally includes a few fish or meat dishes, burgers, sandwiches and salads. It all comes with potatoes and salad on the side (other than the actual salads, obvs). Everything is very fresh and delicious.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of the food here, despite going to eat there on my most recent visit specifically so I could get a photo for this guide. Sorry! This is why I’m a travel blogger, not a food blogger. It’s too easy to just start eating and completely forget. So you’ll just have to trust me that it looks really nice – and tastes great too.

Note: For my fellow phone-tappers who are too used to contactless payments, it’s cash-only here so be prepared.

MadCuba (vegan and vegetarian friendly)

Rua da Cadeia Velha 3, 9050-025, Funchal

When I’m abroad, I don’t always want to eat the local cuisine every single night. A bit of variety is always good and it’s interesting to see a different local take on other nationalities’ food. I especially love it if there’s a type of food available that I can’t easily go out to eat at home. This is why I particularly enjoy a visit to MadCuba. I only have one Cuban restaurant near me but it’s not in the most convenient location. So any chance to eat delicious Cuban food while I’m on holiday is a bonus.

MadCuba does not disappoint on the flavour front. And it’s very affordable. They have some excellent colourful veggie/vegan options, too. The general vibe is very laid back and cool, with really lovely staff. And I was extra pleased when I first visited to discover some of the best cocktails in Funchal (and believe me, I’ve sampled quite a few). 

Taberna Madeira 

Travessa João Caetano,16, Tv. do Pimenta 25, 9050-134 Funchal

Most Funchal restaurants do full-size meals, so it’s nice to have the tapas option at Taberna Madeira. This is a good place to try some Madeiran classics like grilled limpets or maize cubes (milho frito). I’d also get their side dish of fresh vegetables and maybe one more fish dish if you’re very hungry. The portions are generous, to say the least.

Their homemade sweet potato bread is excellent: this comes as a couvert. If you’re new to Portugal, a couvert is usually some bits of bread and/or olives, brought to you when you sit down to order. You can accept it or turn it away. It’s not free but is usually cheap. I normally say no to couvert because I’m not a huge bread fan. Or rather, it’s not a fan of me (hello bloating). But this one is impossible to refuse as it’s SO good.

Prima Caju (vegetarian and vegan friendly)

Rua da Carreira 108, 9000-042 Funchal

Prima Caju is a beautifully designed restaurant and a great option for a healthier lunch. I know, I know. No one wants to hear the words ‘healthy’ and ‘lunch’ near each other when they’re on holiday. But bear with me. You’re going to be eating a lot in Funchal. Seriously, you’re going to be popping pastel de nata into your gob like they’re penny sweets. At some point, a bit of greenery might seem quite appealing. I usually get to that point about 5 nights into a holiday, or when putting my jeans on starts becoming an issue. Whichever comes first.

Prima Caju does couscous, poke bowls, salads, rice, homemade houmous, eggs, smoothies, pancakes (less healthy but very nice) etc. The interior is stylish; think metro tiles and a jungle of houseplants. It feels like somewhere you’d find in Lisbon or Porto because it’s much more hipster than the usual Funchal offerings. Highly recommended!

Informal (vegetarian and vegan friendly)

Rua Dos Murcas 39, 9000-058 Funchal

It’s always nice when one of the restaurants in Funchal does something with a different type of cuisine. Informal offers a nice mixture of modern Portuguese food with an East Asian touch. You’ll find stuff like ramen, yakisoba and tempura vegetables on the menu. Basically, quite a lot of my favourite things to eat from Japan. The food is top quality and they always have two vegetarian or vegan options.

And yes, yet again I’ve failed to get any photos here… But wait! This isn’t because I’m useless and forgot again. Not this time, anyway. I did actually remember to photograph the food and the surroundings. But it was very dark and they came out so gloomy and yellow-tinted that I ended up deleting them. I suppose this gives me an excuse to go earlier next time so I can photograph it all in natural light. Watch this space…

Já Fui Jaquet

Rua de Santa Maria 5, 9060-291 Funchal

You’re inevitably going to find yourself, at some point during your visit, wandering down Rua de Santa Maria. This is the main touristy restaurant street in Funchal. You know the kind of thing. Plastic menus in English and waiters hovering outside trying to entice you in. My idea of hell, tbh. But I recently discovered Já Fui Jaquet, and despite being on this street it’s really good.

It has a slightly bonkers menu featuring little cartoon people shouting at each other. Apparently, this is paying homage to some former owners who were proper characters and enjoyed a good slanging match.

Anyway, if you go in the evening, I recommend the fish pasta sharing ‘pot on the table’. It’s chock-full of different types of local fish and a good portion for two to share. But try going in the daytime for their four-course prato do dia (lunchtime deal). It’s only 12€. What a bargain. You get bread, soup, fish and dessert, as well as water/tea/coffee.

Hamburgueria do Mercado (vegetarian and vegan friendly)

Rua da Carreira 75A, Funchal

Hamburgueria do Mercado is a good choice if you don’t fancy Portuguese food one night. After a long day of walking or if you’ve had one too many poncha, a burger and chips can be just what you need. As well as the usual meaty burgers, it serves vegan and veggie options (hooray!) that aren’t the all-too-frequent disappointing veggie patties. They’re very nicely done mushroom burgers.

It’s a chain from Lisbon and while I’m not mad keen on chain restaurants, I’ve never had a bad meal there. It’s also very affordable: we usually pay around 20€ between us with drinks.

The best cafés, food stalls and bakeries in Funchal, Madeira

Here I’ve listed all the various types of eateries that aren’t restaurants in Funchal. Prepare for cakes.

Opan bakery

Avenida Do Mar 16, Funchal (and various branches around the city)

Opan isn’t some cute and cosy hidden gem bakery, it’s a small, affordable chain that’s ubiquitous around Madeira. But it’s brilliant and you have to try it at least once (a day) while you’re there. On a sunny day, I usually get some delicious savoury breaded fish things and a selection of pastries to eat on one of the benches looking out to sea.

My favourite branch of Opan is the one on Avenia Ariaga, just round the corner from my favourite shop (more on that in my guide to things to do in Funchal). But any branch of Opan is great for a classic pastel de nata. I can also 100% recommend their salami cake, which isn’t some kind of terrifying concoction made from salami the meat. It’s a layered chocolate thing, all deliciously cold and creamy inside. There’s also some kind of custard-based sandwich that I’m always tempted by but it’s huge so haven’t quite worked up to it yet. That’s a future goal.

If you need a cheap hot lunch, Opan always has offers on like a soup or big slice of pizza with a drink for a couple of euro.

Opan has never let me down. Thanks, Opan. Thopan.

Mya Petit Café – for the best brunch in Funchal (vegetarian and vegan friendly)

Rua das Hortas 15, 9050-024 Funchal

When I first started visiting Madeira about 10 years ago, you’d NEVER have found anything as pink and ‘Instagrammable’ as Mya Petit Café. It just shows how much more diverse the food scene across the cafés and restaurants in Funchal is becoming. And don’t worry, the interior may be incredibly pretty, but it’s not style over substance. The food is excellent.

It’s mainly a brunch café, serving things like avocado toast, various egg-based breakfasts, healthy Buddha bowls and pancakes. You can also go for coffee/tea and cake in the afternoon. I especially love their beautiful ceramicwares.

I promise my matching pink outfit in the photo below was accidental…

Café Fortaleza

Beco do Amaro 39, 9000-037 Funchal

Café Fortaleza is one of my regular Funchal haunts. It’s located just behind São João do Pico Fortress (where you can find my favourite viewpoint in Funchal – see #17 on my list of things to do in Madeira.

It’s got a really good atmosphere, with very friendly staff and music playing over the pretty outdoor seating area. But the main thing I love is the locally made artisan lolly ices in some delicious flavours. I’d recommend passion fruit, maracuja, of course.

They also do some local craft beer, which is actually how I found out about the place. It was recommended to me when we’d called in at Vilhoa Craft Beer. If you’re interested in the craft beer scene in Funchal, I have a whole post on where to drink there.

Art Food Corner (vegetarian and vegan friendly)

Rua Dom Carlos I 20, 9060-051 Funchal

Some of my regular readers recommended Art Food Corner to me and I finally got around to going recently. It was so nice, I went twice in the space of a few days. 

It’s very cosy inside with an eclectic, arty vibe – as you would expect, given the name. You can also visit a small art gallery above it, which has some interesting pieces from local artists. And there’s a co-working space. One day, I’m going to go and use it to get some blogging done when I’m in Funchal on a longer trip. 

The menu is great for lunch, with lots of vegan and vegetarian options. They do salad bowls, wraps, sandwiches, all that kind of thing, as well as lovely homemade cakes. 

Padaria Da Familia – one of my favourites for a simple lunch

Rua da Mouraria 2 52, 9000-047 Funchal

Padaria Da Familia is a simple bakery and café where you can get toasties, salads and cakes. This captures what’s good about Madeira: no frills, friendly service, nice food. They also do a good cup of tea.

It’s also a great place to do a spot of people-watching. It’s ideally located on one of my favourite streets in Funchal, which always has plenty of footfall. There are plenty of nice clothes/accessories shops and cafés along here, so you get to see people wandering past with their shopping bags or on their lunch breaks. A perfect way to while away an hour on a sunny afternoon.

Cais da Ribeira

Praça da Autonomia, 9064-501, Funchal

Cais da Ribeira is in a great location on one of the two piers sticking out on the seafront in Funchal. The views are great, so great that you’d have thought I’d have remembered to take a photograph of them. But as mentioned earlier, I’m always forgetting to take photographs when food is in front of me.

This is the perfect place to enjoy some lunch or just a snack and a drink on a warm day. The food is simple and tasty, all freshly prepared. I was a bit suspicious the first time I went because cafés and restaurants in Funchal with excellent locations often don’t bother to do good food because they know people will come for the views anyway. But this one is fantastic. They also do handmade ice cream rolls, which looked like something I need to try next time.

Loja do Chá/Tea House Madeira – for a proper brew (plus cake)

Rua do Sabão 33 35, 9000-056 Funchal

Tea House Madeira is just behind the cathedral. The square it’s in is a proper sun trap, even in winter, so I always gravitate towards it for an afternoon pit stop. 

The main draw of Loja do Chá is, of course, the tea.

Getting proper tea (that’s ‘English breakfast’ to my non-UK readers) abroad is something of a rarity. I take my own Yorkshire teabags with me all over the world because I can’t survive without tea every day. So being able to get proper tea in a café without any hassle is probably one of the reasons I love Madeira so much. If you’re into more exciting teas, though, Loja do Chá has a whole tea menu with pages and pages of different flavours.

They also do delicious cakes/pastries as well as more substantial lunches like crépes, toasties and salad.

A Confeitaria – another fantastic little bakery

Rue dos Aranhas 52, Funchal

A Confeitaria is a bit more of a ’boutique’ style bakery than Opan. It’s very popular and is even rated the #1 bakery in Funchal on TripAdvisor at the time of writing. Not that we acknowledge TripAdvisor here (it’s my main competitor in the online travel world!).

Anyway, A Confeitaria lives up to expectations. There are a few branches, but the one I like best is on Rua dos Aranhas, facing La Vie shopping centre. It’s always bustling with locals on their lunch break or out on whatever the Madeiran equivalent of an office ‘bun run’ is (a custard-tart dart?) in the mid-afternoon.

You can get sandwiches and wraps, but it’s mainly about the glorious cakes, pastries and other sweet treats.

O Giro – for churros

Rua da Carreira 77, 9000-042, Funchal

Before my most recent visit to Madeira, I must have had about 40 messages and emails from my regular readers telling me to go to O Giro for their amazing churros.

Now, I’m afraid I’m not really a fan of churros. The same goes for doughnuts and any other sugary pastry-based goods. That kind of thing is always my last choice in the world of sweet treats. But I dutifully went so I could include them in this guide for everyone who does love them.

Despite them not being my thing, I could tell that the O Giro churros are freshly made and high quality. They’re served piping hot and are definitely the nicest I’ve ever tried – and I spent six weeks in Spain last year so had a few there. The batter is very thin and crispy, not soggy or too sugary either. I split the portion with my other half so that I had more of the delicious ice cream they come with. I have my eye on Kinder Bueno flavour for next time…

You get a very generous portion of churros and ice cream for only 3,50€. Bargain!

UauCacau – for locally made artisan chocolates

R. Q.Baixo 11, 9000-068, Funchal 

UauCacau is an absolute gem. It’s an artisan chocolate shop, where you can also sit in to have a delicious hot chocolate and sweet treat. It’s popular with locals and tourists alike. The chocolates are of exceptional quality, with natural ingredients and really intense flavour.

As it’s Madeira, they of course do maracuja (my favourite, passion fruit), poncha and Madeira wine, but there’s also salted caramel, guava, pistachio, honey, pink pepper… the list goes on. I can’t recommend it enough. 

Snack/street food vans on Funchal seafront

Avenida do Mar, Funchal

Along the seafront in Funchal, you’ll find this little gaggle of vans selling ice cream, juice, beer, coffee, pasteis de nata, and something else that escapes me. It’s all cheap and really good.

The ice cream is Mr-Whippy-esque, which if you’re a regular follower, you’ll know I have a deep-rooted addiction to. Don’t be put off by the photo below of it in a plastic cup. This was a few years ago now and they do it in a much more eco-friendly cone now. 

Further afield: the best restaurants in Madeira beyond Funchal

Now that I’ve summed up some of the best cafés, eateries and restaurants in Funchal, let’s go a little bit further afield. I recommend loads of excellent day trips from Funchal in my big guide to Madeira. You’ll need to sustain yourself if you decide to do some of them, so I’ve listed below some mostly lunch-appropriate places dotted around the island. 

Sabores do Curral, Curral das Freiras (vegetarian friendly)

Caminho da Pedra, Curral das Freiras

Curral das Freiras (the ‘Valley of the Nuns’) is one of the best day trips from Funchal, easily done on the bus. You can read about how to do it in my guide to Curral das Freiras.

Food-wise, this mountain village is famous for its chestnuts, which are served with a sweet syrupy sauce. But I have to warn you that it’s, er… an acquired taste. I prefer chestnuts in a savoury meal rather than on their own. But if you like them, don’t look for them in restaurants in Funchal. Go to Curral das Freiras, their real home.

The best place for lunch in the Valley of the Nuns is Sabores do Curral. I’ve been there countless times over the years and find that it gets better every time, with more veggie options on the menu too. Sit on the roof terrace a seriously incredible view down the valley (as shown in the picture below). It does food other than sweet chestnuts too; don’t worry. 

Restaurante Praça do Engenho, Porto da Cruz (vegetarian friendly)

Rua da Praia, Casas Próximas, Porto da Cruz

Porto da Cruz is my favourite place to visit in Madeira and it makes an ideal day trip from Funchal. I love it so much that I’ve actually got a whole guide to Porto da Cruz here.

One of the things I love about it is stopping off for lunch with a beautiful view of the sea at Restaurante Praca do Engenho. We tend to do a salad each with a portion of chips to share (if you’ve been to Madeira, you’ll know that you end up taking any opportunity to avoid yet more bread, as nice as it is). I always picture sitting there listening to the waves crashing with a beer and an agua sem gas when I think about Madeira.

Anyway, it’s nice grub and you get a great view of the sea and the mountains. You also get a good people-watch thrown in, as well as getting to sit near an ‘interesting’ art sculpture. Go over to my Porto da Cruz post for more on that!

Local Shop, Monte (vegetarian friendly)

Outside the cable car stop, Monte

Local Shop (which sadly has no website for me to link to) is a delicious café that foodies should be flocking to. It serves local craft beer, too. Amazingly given its location right outside the Monte cable car (more on that here), it isn’t expensive and touristy at all. It’s all outside seating, although it does have a roof over it, and is ideally located for some stunning views down the valley from all of the tables. The general atmosphere of the place is lovely and it gets a 10/10 on the wallpaper front. It’s all top quality in a very trendy way (dare I say a bit hipster?), which is a nice contrast to the usual touristy stuff round there.

I usually go for one of the incredible, colourful salads and a sandwich to share with my other half. To drink, I recommend the freshly pressed blood orange and pomegranate juice and of course, a craft beer. It turns out the beer is supplied by Vilhoa, in Funchal. Read more on the emerging craft beer scene in Madeira over on my ‘where to drink in Funchal’ guide.

Every time we go to Local Shop, we do the classic League of Gentleman line: ‘This is a local shop, for local people… there’s nothing for you here’. Multiple times. I really hope the owners have called it that in reference to the show, but I feel like it might not quite have made it across to Madeira…

Madeira: useful information for your trip while you’re eating your way round the best restaurants in Funchal

How to get there (and away)

Getting into Funchal city centre from the airport is easiest by taxi. They’re yellow so hard to miss. Thus far, I’ve never been ripped off by a taxi driver in Funchal, unlike in many cities round Europe. It should cost about 25€ from the airport to Funchal. 

On the way home, Madeira airport is about a million times better than it used to be. It now has a Parfois shop, which is excellent for bags and accessories. There’s also a bit more choice in places to eat. Flights can often be delayed due to winds because the airport is basically in the sea. And sometimes they have to land on neighbouring Porto Santo island. So brace yourself for a bit of a wait if it’s blowing a gale. Make sure a book or your Kindle is at the top of your carry-on so you can easily dig it out.

Where to stay

At the time of writing, my usual hotel Quinta Sao Goncalo doesn’t seem to be taking bookings. The property is for sale too! So I’ve got a horrible feeling they may have accepted an offer on it! It may be worth checking back just in case, but in the meantime some other lovely options are:

• Quinta B (a B&B in the old town)
• Apartments Madeira Old Town
• Three House Hotel.

All three of those are on the ‘good’ side of town, away from the built-up hotel area.

How to get around

Most places in Funchal are walkable. To get further afield, the buses are great and really cheap. You can get a rechargeable bus card from a GIRO machine; the easiest one to find is just by the cable car station. All the bus info is on the three main bus company sites: Horarios, SAM and Rodoeste.

When to go

I always go in January and February. It tends to be warm, even if you don’t get full-on sunshine every day. When the sun does come out, it’s proper sun so your Vitamin D levels will thank you. I’ve never been at any other time of year but I have heard spring is great. I don’t think the height of summer even would be a problem because a) they don’t get unbearable heat and b) it’s not a child-centred city (probably the main reason why I love it, being allergic to children) so you won’t be surrounded by summer holiday families. New Year is also a good time to go because they go ALL OUT for it with fireworks.

Save and share: The best restaurants in Funchal, Madeira

If you enjoyed this guide to the best restaurants in Funchal, why not pin it to your Pinterest board?

You might also like my other Madeira posts:

• 45 things to do in Funchal, Madeira
• The best bars in Funchal, Madeira: in search of poncha and craft beer
• A day trip to Curral das Freiras from Funchal
• A day trip to Porto da Cruz from Funchal
• How to do a day trip to Camara de Lobos from Funchal
• How to spend a week in Madeira: a 7-day itinerary without a car
• The best beaches in Madeira and how to reach them.

And if you’ve used one of my travel guides and enjoyed it, you can also buy me a drink. Cheers. 

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